Deceptive appearances


The Zuleta Amontillado Viejo sherry (Tanners circa £24) is a wonderful, mouth-filling sherry. The colour is a clear but deep orange with a light viscosity that belies its 19 degrees of alcohol. From the colour you are expecting a sweet drink and the nose also confirms that. Its hazelnut aroma and hints of orange peel are worth lingering over. The first taste impressions are those of delicacy but does it explode in the mouth! It has a savoury mid-palate but a really big, bone dry finish which stays with you well after you’ve swallowed the wine. As Richard observed, Zuleta is based in Sanlucar, home of salty manzanilla, and these distinctive tangs are to be found in this wine. [Richard: they also make the excellent manzanilla ‘La Goya’ and the equally good, but hard to find, manzanilla pasada Barbiana.]

It reminded me of drinking a malt whisky or lingering over a fine cognac. You only need one small glass to savour but the memories will stay with you. If you want to find out what sherry can taste like at its best – look no further. Superb!! [Richard: a fantastic sherry. As good as some of the La Bota range.]


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