Two chardonnays tasted over the weekend rather dispelled the myth about the grape variety being over promoted and, as a result, contemptible in many people’s eyes.
Firstly, Tanners Macon Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette 2008 (£19.50). It was a bright, clear, lemon-yellow and attractive to look at. The nose was rich with honey and pineapple notes – much more interesting than the usual lemony tones. Light in the mouth, the wine was dry but the acidity balanced a slight raisiny sweet finish – a real rich mouthful of wine. You could call this layered – an over-used term, I know – but however you describe it, the wine was delightful to drink.
Now the second chardonnay – tasted blind. So it’s the slow reveal. The colour was golden (age?) and really clear and bright (good quality?). On the nose, it was complex, with slight honeyed notes and fine acidity. The richness suggested a well-made white wine, probably chardonnay because of the firmness in structure. The palate was gloriously silky-smooth, dry, well-made, rich with balanced acidity. It had a ‘fat’ quality rather than a lean style but there was a ‘tingling seam of acidity’ (Richard). This wine gave much pleasure without the accompanying food. Beautiful. I plumped for a Cote de Beaune white but in fact it was a ….. Wine Society Exhibition Chablis Mont de Milieu 2006 (Brocard).
There, it was a weekend of two chardonnays – neither boring. We’re looking forward to more.
[Richard – I can’t claim any credit for the phrase above. Nicked from the Wine Society where it appears often. The Chablis was bought some years ago so I can’t recall the price. Both wines were very good although neither was typical of the region.]