Beaujolais Nouveau 2012 (Dubœuf)


Readers under the age of 40 or so will no doubt be unaware that Beaujolais Nouveau (BN) was once immensely popular. In the nineteen eighties, every third week in November, there were races to and from France to bring the wine back, comparative reviews in the weekend papers (I can recall both Robinson and McQuitty giving their views) and, in my cases, Beaujolais tastings. In those days everyone stocked BN, often from more than one maker, with some village wines (cru BN is not allowed) and it was easy for 15-20 people to get together, each with a different bottle. Now the wine is hard to find. Most supermarkets don’t stock it at all. This one came from Waitrose but MWW and M&S also had some stock. Back to the tastings. Really a party of course but taken quite seriously, at least in the early evening. Wines were tasted blind,  marked and a teetotal friend kept score. The only thing I can remember about the results was that a Dubœuf (he made several styles then) always won.

There is a maxim that BN should be drunk before Christmas so I’m a bit late with this one. First impression – both in glass and mouth – very thin (12%). Almost like drinking water. Very pale, decent fruity nose – none of the dreaded ‘banana’ aroma that was prevalent in the eighties. The taste is light, not very persistent, with some raspberry fruit which develops in the glass. Not bad and it’s good to try it again.

[Much better on day 2 with a deeper more savoury taste, which I didn’t expect.]


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