The ten cru Beaujolais are heralded as being the best of the region and yet, as previous posts indicate, even their qualities are variable. It seems that the grower is the reliable guide to quality. Therefore when Richard offered a bottle of Moulin a Vent 2006 made by Louis Jadot I expected a well-made wine. This was the Clos de Carquelin (£22) but not only was it seven years old but also had been open 24 hours.
The colour was a very deep red, not completely clear, viscous and with a slight brick-coloured rim. All to be expected from the gutsiest of the cru. The nose was vegetal and alcohol-laden but not particularly characteristic of the gamay grape. When tasting it you would be forgiven for thinking this was a Pinot Noir from Burgundy, so pronounced were the savoury notes with the slight sweetness of the style. It had none of the Gamay red berry fruit characteristics and, considering it was seven years old, it had a firm structure. There was slight oxidation, not surprisingly, but it was still a lovely mouthful.
The observation that the Gamay grape takes on the characteristics of its clone/cousin Pinot Noir was certainly evident in this wine. The fact that it had been opened 24 hours thereby had accelerating the ageing process didn’t detract from our enjoyment. It was a lovely wine, showing its provenance admirably.
[Richard: from WS, part of a mixed case of older beaujolais].