Smokey bacon


This was the second of two wines tasted (after the white Bordeaux) in the same evening and, whilst our opinion of the first was lukewarm, this was excellent. It was Ogier’s Cote Rotie 2004. It was described as an ‘assemblage’, although 100% Syrah (no Viognier, though it is permitted), the base wines can be drawn from different plots in the area.

The colour was very deep red right to the rim – almost black – and opaque. There were some windows indicating medium viscosity.  It had one of those bouquets that could be enjoyed time and time again, each sniff revealed another layer of aromas. Our comments ranged from initially menthol to spiciness and then smoke, followed by cooking smoked bacon! There was even some delicate floral violet notes in there. The nose was developed Syrah at its best – complex and delightful.

The palate was silky smooth and rich with still plenty of life in it. The acidity kept it refreshing and not at all big, brash and sweet as some New World Syrahs can be. No, this was in the classic European style of delicate, finer Syrahs that stayed dry right through its long finish.The acidity kept ensured we kept wanting more.

Accompanying food would need to carry some flavour but not so much as to eclipse its delicacy – I would not use it with a ‘barbie’ but venison, ox cheeks and fillet steaks would be ideal.

A lovely wine indeed.

[Richard: from Wine Society, £32. Plenty of complexity. A classy Cote Rotie from a good maker.]



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