White Bordeaux – and a sorry.


If my memory is true, I think this is the first white Bordeaux that’s appeared on the site. If not, apologies; if so, apologies. [Richard, it’s not.]

Anyway, this is L’Esprit de Chevalier 2007, a Pessac-Leognan – the area that surrounds Bordeaux itself, on the left bank of the Garonne. Traditionally, white Bordeaux have used a blend of grapes – Sauvignon, Semilllon and, to a lesser extent, Muscadelle. The bright citrus of the dominant  Sauvignon is balanced by the luscious lanolin texture of Semillon – it’s a particularly potent blend – and one I like.

This clear and bright wine had a deep lemon colour, suggesting age, but not without a green tinge which also hinted at youth and acidity. The nose was subtle, not particularly expressive, deep but again with some citrus notes. On the palate, it was rich with a good balance of acidity and of medium depth – obviously a well-made wine.

We both thought it was a bit ‘ordinary’, not particularly expressive but rather lean-boned, lacking in any ‘give’. It would match delicate fish flavours and it did need food. We thought it might get better if opened a while but that thought was more in hope than expectation.

(I had an 08 Clos Floridene, a white Graves, the following night and this was much richer, a lovely balance of the two grapes’ styles. It rather showed how L’Esprit could have been).


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