The German winner


Riesling, a German grape variety, a noble grape, a grape that succeeds in many places – including South America. Okay, you’ve spotted the thinly disguised World footie theme – but we drank this earlier on Sunday evening, before the final. How prescient are we?

This is Trimbach’s Selection de Vieilles Vignes Riesling 2009 (ABV 13.5%), a French wine made from a German grape. Richard seemed to remember that previous ones tried were slightly off-dry and we expected, because of the pedigree, that this would be similar.

The colour was pale green rather than pale lemon, indicating the presence of youth and acidity. It was beautifully clear. On the nose it was rich but subtle, very restrained but with the slight kerosene whiff that Riesling gives when older. But the aromas were not strong and faded quite quickly. A wee bit disappointing, we had to admit.

The palate had a regal restraint, a power that was born of the weighty mouth feel and richness. The pronounced acidity was that of lime, which helped balance the richness and led us on to another glass – but then no more. A lovely food wine, great with deep flavoured, oily dishes. It was crying out for smoked salmon or even a quiche Lorraine. As for being off-dry? Not a bit of it. This was bone dry – “all the sugars aged out” (Richard).

German grape, French expression – here’s to the Europeans!

[Richard: this came from the Wine Society, about £17, which is very good value. I bought 6 and this was the last one. No tasting note on the other 5. From the WS tasting note ‘Winemaker Pierre Trimbach … decided to select parcels from these venerable vines, from both Hunawihr (home of their legendary Clos Ste Hune riesling) and neighbouring Ribeauvillé (site of the vines for their Cuvée Frédéric Emile). Only 9,000 bottles were made’.]


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