Back in the corner


On May 28 2013 we reviewed a wine from Jurancon, via Stolarski of Nottingam. Our comments were very positive so it was great to revisit the same part of France – the south-west, near Pau, to try its stablemate. This wine was slightly more expensive, about £12-13, than the previous bottle – it was the Montesquiou Cuvade Préciouse 2011 (14% ABV).

The ritual blind tasting (or is it testing?) that Richard provides is always a challenge and especially when the more obvious bouquet characteristics of well-known mono-varietals are not present. The depth of the limpid lemon yellow colour and the viscosity suggested grapes rich in sugars and ripeness as did the forward nose which, early on, had quite peppery, spicy overtones. It was definitely “Rhone-ish” (R’s words) but with more lemony acidity than that region shows. Certainly, it was an attractive bouquet that invited drinking.

There was a short break while I floundered around the wine regions. I started by positing Italy (lots of lesser known grapes) and Spain (because my host likes Spain) eventually landing in France (“the south” – large area, can’t go wrong) but the wine lacked the fat creaminess of a good white Rhone. I eventually landed in the south-west and from that point it was easy to proclaim the Mansengs, major and minor, plus the Courbu and Camaralet.

The mouth feel was wonderfully weighty and rich but prevented from being too cloying by some refreshing acidity which kept us coming back for more. The fruit analogies I found difficult to pick, apart from the lemony-acidity, the closest being greengages – it hadn’t the aromatics of peach but whatever they were this was a lovely glass of wine. It ended drily but very long – a white wine to savour. Another Stolarski stunner.

[Richard, yes a terrific drink. Weighty mouth feel which I always like in a wine. Angie – ‘red-wine preferred’ – polished off the rest of the bottle with great enjoyment as an accompaniment to a ‘green’ (broad, french and runner bean) risotto.]


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