How to make a fool of yourself


My Desert Island white wines? Rieslings and Chardonnays.  You’d think I could tell them apart. Not so.

When the colour is a deep yellow and the nose rich with a slight vanilla/honey edge. When the taste is long and dry preceded by sweetness balanced with acidity and there is weight in the mouth. When everything is telling me a good quality white Burgundy – I declare ‘this is a good white Burgundy’…

… from Alsace. Josmeyer’s Hengst Grand Cru 1999. Only later did it start showing gentle aromatic petrolly notes. But very slight ones.

Beautiful wine, great depth of flavours. Obviously, I’m in need of more practice.

[Richard: very good wine, bought three years ago from the WS (£32). It had that wonderful combination of power and weight you get with an old riesling, despite being only 12.5%. Rich mouthfeel. Hengst is one of the Grand Cru areas which doesn’t allow added sugar, even in bad vintages. From the nose (still persistent three days on) I didn’t think it could be anything other than riesling but once you have decided on an answer (wine was tasted blind) it’s difficult to shift your perception. Bit like crosswords when you fixate on the (wrong) answer. We tasted it with a pungent, marc washed, French epoisses style cheese and it stood up well.]


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