Another Stolarski stonker


Domaine de le Marfée 2000 vdp de l’Heraut has an intriguing sub-title of ‘Les Champs Murmurés’.  We translated this as ‘whispering grass’, bringing back memories of Windsor Davies & Don Estelle from ‘It Ain’t ‘Alf Hot Mom’. Sing up, Lofty – this was certainly a wine to warble about. It was supplied by Richard’s merchant in Nottingham, Leon Stolowski, a merchant who specialises in the more under-sung areas of France. The colour wasn’t particularly promising – opaque, brown-rimmed and viscous, but the nose changed our opinions. Herby and spicy, it had the smell of a powerful wine that was ‘medicinal’. All the power and the attractive cough-medicine sweetness was cut by some superb acidity which balanced the sweet mid-palate. It ended long and dry. A lovely wine. I thought I detected Syrah but we could not find the blend and had to guess it might be Grenache, Syrah and Carignan or Mourvedre. [Richard – it seems to be 50% mouvedre and 50% syrah]. Whatever it was, it was excellent and no doubt better for having been opened 60 mins.

[Richard: in late 2012 I ordered a mixed case from Leon Stolarski (not really ‘my merchant’ – just someone who I have bought from occasionally) called ‘A Dozen Mature Red Gems’. As I recall an attraction of the case was that all the wines were claimed to be good, if not better, on day 2. This is something red wine drinkers know instinctively but I thought it would be interesting to try some selected on that basis. Anyway the box got rather forgotten but I unearthed it recently and have been trying a few – see below. The Marfée, at £24 was, after a ’03 Trevallon, the most expensive in the case and comes from a maker that LS is very proud to import, with good reason. As Geoff says – a terrific wine with no chance of any being left to try on the second day. LS does it again.


I also opened (Geoff not present) an ’01 Cahors, Domaine du Garinet (£15) and an ’07 Domaine D’Archimbaud La Robe du Poupre (£15) Both very good with the Cahors very drinkable on day 3.


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