A privilege to drink


You feel as though you should genuflect before this wine – the apogee of an Alsace Riesling. Trimbach’s Clos Sainte Hune limestone-based vineyard has been in the family for 200 years and produces an average of 8000 bottles a year. Needless to say it is much-prized. It’s released five years after the vintage and will keep for 15-20 years; I’m glad we didn’t wait until we are in our 80s, despite my comment below.

The deep lemon colour was very bright, clear with little evidence of viscosity – which was surprising when later experiencing the weight in the mouth. The immediate bouquet was that of citrus, lemons rather than limes with only a slight hallmark petrol smell, which might suggest it had plenty of maturing still to do. The honey notes started to increase the longer it was exposed in the glass.

The palate was very long and dry but the abiding sensations were those of freshness and a recognition of its power. The recommended drinking window of 2019-2024 could be easily understood however the wine was still very much together, structured and firm. Present were all the notes of honey, lemons and a weighty mouth feel which were expected.

I hope Richard can keep the others he has (he’ll tell you more) – and that we’re both around to enjoy them.

[Richard: a very expensive (pre-marriage, obviously) special purchase from the WS. Not something they usually stock. Two each of the 2004, 2005 and 2006. A wine I’ve always wanted to try, arguably the greatest Alsace riesling. We visited Hunawihr on our trip to Alsace but didn’t spot any signs of the very small (1.67ha) lieu-dit. Apparently it is not easy to find. I think ‘freshness and power’ sum up the wine too. Fabulous mouth feel (apparently it is a richer vintage than usual), intense, great length. Hope I can hang on to the others for a few years.]


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