Homage to Kefalonia (airport)

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Bringing booze back from your holiday in the sun is a fine old British tradition, much curtailed post 9/11. My Dad always put a couple of bottles of gin in his suitcase, wrapped in beach towels and never had a breakage but I’ve seen (and smelt) too much spilt wine in baggage reclaim to risk it. So, ‘duty free’ or nothing, with prices no different to what you see in local shops. Kefalonia has a small airport, albeit with large queues, and a modest duty free to match. Looking for local wines I went for the above, by Gentilini, not previously seen in Katelios, out holiday village. About €13 each, the most expensive to be had. It turns out the vineyard is near the airport and we must have driven past it in the coach but I didn’t see it. The white – now called Robola, after the grape, was the better of the two. (Previously the appellation did not allow screw tops so in 2013 the name Rombus was used). Very pale green, clear bright, medium viscosity, fresh, aromatic, chalky undertone, rather riesling like. A full mouth feel, some forward sweetness and minerality. Very nice, if too expensive. The red, called ‘Red’ is a blend of agiorgitiko, mavrodaphne and syrah in a 60/20/20 ratio. You might think that this would add complexity but what results is an anonymous wine with little varietal character. Closed nose, purple, too much tannin, some fruit. Ordinary and overpriced, probably the least interesting red tried on the holiday.

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