“This must surely be in the running for the title of Spain’s most interesting white grape ….” says Oz Clarke. I found this comment after tasting the wine on Sunday evening – if I had read it beforehand the disappointment would have been all the greater. Waitrose’s Valdesil Godello from the Valderossa region in north-west Spain appeared a bargain when reduced from £16 to £12.50 but we both thought it had found its right price level.
The slight green tinge to its pale yellow colour hinted at an acidity that was evident in the citrus aromas, in addition to some mineral qualities. We anticipated a fresh wine and weren’t disappointed. It had a thickish mouth feel and a persisting acidity which was an interesting combination. It reminded us, to some degree, of our much-loved Greek Assyrtiko but without the intensity. Unfortunately, that’s where our interest stalled. It was short and, well, just a bit ordinary. Certainly not the grape that Oz Clarke described – perhaps he had a better one.
(I must declare an aversion to the Sauvignon-esque style of whites. Unless they are well-made, slightly aged and subtle – rather than underripe nettles on a stick – I’m not convinced. Perhaps I will be one day.)
[Richard: acidic rather than ‘possessing acidity’ and thus rather disappointing. On reflection the reduced price is perhaps a bit steep.]