“A study in oily viscosity”


Sunday night’s duet of semillon and riesling was doubly enjoyable – for me, at least. The wine Richard served blind was a shock in as much as it wasn’t his type of tipple, namely a sweet wine from the Moselle’s Wehlen Sonnenuhr vineyard. I visited the area  in the late-1970s, as a rookie wine shop assistant, and have always had a soft spot for Moselle rieslings. The wine is Dr F Weins-Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr (sundial) Auslese 2006.

The colour was a bright lemon-yellow with no green tinge and little obvious viscosity. It smelt of sweet, cooked apples and beeswax with some floral notes floating in the background. The taste was a shock, for the reasons above; long and sweetly rich , powerful and heavy in the mouth. At first, there was no hint of the petrol aromas we associate with riesling but later on (three hours) these had developed. On this tasting, I think Richard’s criticism of it being ‘one-dimensional’ was a fair one, however I have kept some to try tomorrow to see if it opens up a little. I’ll get back to you.

The following evening I tasted it a little more exactingly. The primary aromas and tastes were of tropical fruits which, because of its bottle ageing, developed into dried i.e. more concentrated versions of the same fruits. There was no typical petrol smell but some honey flavours. I think the wine had reached its best, possibly 12-18 months previously, and would not change much now. Verdict? On reflection, R’s one-dimensional comment was confirmed, a good sweet wine but not a great one .

[Richard: this is from the same case blogged here. Purchased in 2011, £13 for a half bottle which made it, I think, the most expensive of the selection. Not my style but I hoped it would be a pleasant drink in the garden on a warm April evening. And so it was but there was a disappointing lack of complexity and after one small glass I couldn’t wait to get back to the manzanilla.]


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