Memorable wines


I taste and drink a lot of wine in a professional as well as unpaid capacity. I enjoy many, dislike fewer and can’t remember most of them. Occasionally – and it is occasionally – some stick in the vinous memory. These are individual bottles that evoke an immediate ‘wow’ response followed by ‘This is good!’. Sunday’s wine was one such wine. Trimbach’s Clos St Hune 2004 was generously supplied by Richard and tasted blind.

Piss-coloured with some viscosity, it sashayed round the generously sized goblet releasing the subtle Riesling nose. I had a sense of restrained power and richness with lovely floral hints. (Why is it that excellent wines encourage extravagant – or overblown – language?)

The palate was a meld of furniture polish, beeswax, honeysuckle and jasmine flavours but overladen with a wonderful acidity which kept all fresh and prevented the cloying that the richness could bring. An extremely long finish and medium-heavy weight were my other noted qualities. In one word – superb.

Clos St Hune is a Trimbach estate in the Grand Cru Rosacker area in Hunawihr, north of Colmar, Alsace. The ageing potential is 10 – 20 years, which accounts for the restrained power this wine had. 04 was a bit of a challenge, being very wet, but it takes a good wine-maker to make good wine in a poor year. Thank you Richard – and Trimbach.

[Richard: we’ve tasted this before, in 2015. That review has a lot more information about the wine. Three years on, I felt it was heavier and more powerful. Another lovely drink on a summer evening.]


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